Tuesday 15 December 2009

Sonia Delaunay- Swimsuit 1928

Sonia Delaunay
Biography






Sonia Delaunay was born Sophie Stern on November 14 1885 in Gradzihsk, Ukraine. She moved to Paris in 1905 to study art at Academie de la Palette. Along with her husband Robert Delaunay and others she cofounded the Orphism art movement, best known for its use of geometric shapes and eye-catching colours. Her love of collage inspired Delaunay to combine her skills in fine art with applied arts to experiment with texture and colour combinations in fabric designs. Delaunay began this experimentation in 1913 but it was the Russian Revolution of 1917 which forced her into the apparel business. To support her family, Delaunay opened a boutique “Casa Sonia”, in Madrid, Spain where her family had been living during the First World War. Creating and selling clothing and accessories became Sonia’s life and she became well known for her unusual motifs and colours which enveloped the body, it was said that her clothing became a moving painting. In 1921 she returned to Paris after having closed her boutique to design for private clients as well as couturiers such as Jacques Doucet, Gabrielle Bonheur “Coco” Chanel and Jacques Heim. Over these years she experimented with textiles, embroidery and designing with wool which led onto her swimsuit creations which have became well known and loved as influential 20th century Modernist design.


Of her fifty swimsuit designs, Delaunay would describe her fabrics as having: “relationships of colour using pure geometrical forms with rhythm. They were, and remain, colour scales - really a purified version of our concept of painting. (...) This shows the extent to which she was truly inspired by her fine artwork. In 1964, the Louvre staged a retrospective exhibition of Sonia’s work, making her the first living woman to be honoured so highly. In 1975, she became an officer of the French Legion of Honor. These accolades were not only for textile design but for her contribution to the fine art world and her outstanding work in theatre design. A more recent display of Sonia Delaunay’s work was in The Victoria and Albert museum’s exhibition “Modernism: Designing a new world” (2006) which focused in on the key defining movement of 20th century design, Sonia being one of the pioneers “ one of the great dames of Modernism”.


Sonia’s startlingly designed (and startlingly uncomfortable) knitted wool swimsuit (above, from 1928) helped bring in a new age of fashion in the 20th century which linked to the latest art movements. With such designs she got rid of the line between fashion and fine art and by raising the previously disregarded area of textiles to the level of fine art she paved the way for future designers and artists. The knitted wool swimsuit was weaved using wool jersey in 1928 in Delaunay’s textile workshop, Paris “L’atelier Simultane”. It was made to a standard size to go along with the other 49 designs. They were not mass produced but were merely one offs to be shown as works of art. This swimsuit was revolutionary for its time and Sonia Delaunay was helping to push for the emancipation of women.




Photo above: Knitted wool 1928 (photo taken from Photothèque des musées de la ville de Paris) photo library museum.




Sonia Delaunay swimsuits 1928





Sonia Delaunay’s influence on the emancipation of women in the early 1920’s


Sonia Delaunay’s beautifully designed range of fifty swimsuits (1928) helped bring in the new age of fashion in the 20th century. Sonia was an extremely influential designer of the 1920’s, she was seen as being one of the pioneers of a popular art movement “ one of the great dames of Modernism”. Many were startled by such innovative design at this time but as Sonia’s popularity grew in the textile and fashion world her designs were welcomed by many European women. Her designs would later be acknowledged and loved as significant modernist examples of artwork. Delaunay’s swimsuit range was revolutionary for its time and she was most definitely pushing for the emancipation of women.


Fashion history was shocked into the 1920’s when swimsuits became much more body hugging and revealing, showing off limbs more clearly than ever before. By the end of the 19th century, swimming had become an art form and it finally became acceptable for women to swim. The beginning of the 20th century marked a new daring era in swimwear for women; the new swimsuits relied heavily on the form of the “fashionable” body, gradually exposing more and more skin.
The first suits were far more practical than comfortable or stylish and it was designers of the 1920’s such as Sonia Delaunay and Coco Chanel who decided to push the boundaries of design to reveal that women could also be fashionable and sexy. Liberated from long skirts and heavy materials, women of the twenties were now able to wear figure hugging wool jersey sleeveless tank suits. Delaunay decided to translate her abstract shapes from paintings and textiles onto the female form to create very fashionable yet wearable pieces. Sonia Delaunay had become well known for her unusual motifs and colours, which enveloped the body, it was said that her clothing became a moving painting.


The early feminist movement meant that women were celebrating life and pushing for what they deserved. At this time along with the changes in clothing women’s suffrage was taking place. Their efforts for reform influenced many women in other countries to strive for equality and over time, the suffrage movement caused social changes all over Europe. Throughout Sonia’s life she worked closely with her husband Robert Delaunay within the art movement “Orphism” although her work was given praise she never received as much acclaim as Robert. This was due to the sexist views of the time which led Sonia Delaunay onto the belief that female artists should be given as much praise as the male art world. It was not until his death in 1941 that she came out of his shadow and really received the appreciation she deserved. Sonia Delaunay is now looked at as a role model in the fashion world for helping change the views on women’s clothing and ultimately pushing for women to be whoever they want and deserve to be.





Sonia Delaunay - Impact on Contemporary Artists


Sonia Delaunay’s woolen swimsuit created a new age of fashion in the 20th century, this piece was linked to the latest modernist movement. Sonia’s swimsuit design bridged the gap between fashion and fine art and raised the previously disregarded specialist area of textiles. The swimsuit was made to a standard size, this garment was not put into mass production, they were seen as works of art. (scrib.com/in-an-influencial-fashion-encyclopedia)


For this section I will look into contemporary artists that have been influenced by the modernism/ modernist artists. My first example involves British Architect Sir Terry Farrell. Farrell’s work includes elements of contemporary technologies, modernism and touching slightly on post-modernism. Shaping the sky lines of London his work includes famous building such as SIS building (MI6 government building), The Home office, Seoul – Incheon international airport ground and finally close to the new high rise apartments on Edinburgh’s shore Leith. Farrell’s work represents influence and inspiration from the modernist movement, his work incorporates space, light and efficiency this is current through out. I feel that this artist is relevant because he demonstrates aspects of contemporary modernity.
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terry_Farrell_(architect)), (http://www.terryfarrell.co.uk/#)


Jeff Koons a contemporary American artist know for his banal objects such balloon animals and tulips de bilbao. I find Koons work very minimal he creates this buy using such materials as steal with mirrored surfaces, this for me replicates and prime example of modererinum within contemporary art. Koons recent series entitled “The New” again demonstrates modernism with in contemporary design. For this series he explores different house hold essentials such the “Hoover” (http://www.jeffkoons.com/site/index.html), within this series he plays with composition, suggestion and minimal color schemes such as white on white. Like many contemporary artists his work is viewed as inspiring, pioneering and ground breaking I like to think of his work as easy to understand, simple, minimal and moderen.
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeff_Koons#Recent_work)
(http://www.jeffkoons.com/site/index.html)


The final two contemporary artists I will be looking into is Christo and Jeanne-Claude, the collaborative husband and wife. Their works were often viewed impressive and controversial, the purpose of many of their art works were seen to bring new ways of looking at the surrounding landscapes. Linking back to their “controversial” work, the stand out pieces for me are the wrapped landmarks. The couple would take found world famous landmarks and literally wrap them as if they were a gift. Mainly using white canvas it shows the landscape or architecture in its truest form, shape. This created a visually stunning and minimal piece, it gave a very modern aesthetic, simple yet very effective. The couples aim, to make people look at their landscape in its truest and most natural of forms.
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christo)
(http://www.christojeanneclaude.net/wm.shtml)\

Aspects of Modernism

From my research I generated three specialist aspects that I consider the most relevant to Modernism in relation to the artist Sonia Delaunay and particularly on one of her designs – the Swimsuit.

Firstly it’s the idea of “Rejection of tradition”
This piece of artwork was made in 1928 and the most intriguing thing that I found with Delaunay’s swimsuit is the fact it’s knitted wool whereas most swimsuits we see nowadays are made from nylon. It must be really controversial and pioneer in her time when she came out with this design and chose to make it with wool. When I look at her works I think of rebelliousness and also think that she’s trying to create something that’s new and innovative in her time.

“Modernism was characterised by the deliberate departure from tradition and the use of innovative forms of expression that distinguish many styles in the arts and literature of the late nineteenth and the twentieth century. Modernism refers to this period's interest in new types of paints and other materials, in expressing feelings and ideas, in creating abstractions and fantasies, rather than representing what is real.”
– Sources from www.artmovements.co.uk


Then it’s the belief of “the design and technology could change the society.” Delaunay designed one-piece swimwear so women were not longer needed to wear their underwear when they went swimming. The design made women realised that swimsuit can be fashionable. As a painter she was the first women artist who had an abstract exhibition in Louvre and she was one of the artists who introduced a new way of appreciating art and fashion and it’s certainly corresponding to the belief of the design and technology could change the society.
“Turn of the century
In the 1890s a strand of thinking began to assert that it was necessary to push aside previous norms entirely, instead of merely revising past knowledge in light of current techniques…. It was argued that, if the nature of reality itself was in question, and if restrictions which had been in place around human activity were falling, then art, too, would have to radically change.”
- Sources from Wikipedia
Finally it’s the most common aspect that links to Modernism “Form follows function” As I mentioned in the previous paragraph she came out with the design of a one piece swimsuit that provides more convenience and security when it comes to swimming. It’s been proved that one piece swimwear enhances and facilitates speed in water and that’s why professional female swimmers wear them in competitions instead of wearing two pieces swimsuits. However there’s still a major design error with this piece when it comes to functionality as wool is certainly not water friendly and it absorbs water and makes the material heavier. I think it’s only an initial concept and it’s classified as an artwork rather than a purchasable garment.
“Form follows function is a principle associated with modern architecture and industrial design in the 20th century. The principle is that the shape of a building or object should be primarily based upon its intended function or purpose.”
– Sources from Wikipedia



The Zeitgeist of Modernism – Germans influencing Idealism

Health, the sense of well-being, elucidates the phenomena of Modernism.
It was a collective aim of architects and designers to simplify the diverse areas of life for the whole population and to improve old-established living-conditions substantially.

The ancient Weltanschauung (worldview) underwent a total upheaval through the horrors of the First World War and subsequently outbreak of the influenza pandemic throughout Europe.

Architect Raymond McGrath wrote:
“The effect of that time of destruction seems to have been a burning desire for sunlight and clean air and clear thought.” (Wilk, 2006, p. 251)

Otto Dix, Wounded Soldier, Bapaume, autumn 1916

Light, air, purity and openness for every man became the new maxims for constituting a modern age.
“Light – Air – Sun – Make Life Possible” (Overy, 2007, p. 9)
The healing and positive impact of sunlight got recognized as well as the vital adherence to hygiene for healing diseases like tuberculosis in a natural way.
(More information about what Tuberculosis did for Modernism http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1251640/)

In the field of architecture, designers were aspiring after the sunlight. They created an interconnection of openness of the inside and outside space. The ideological conception was defined through well-lit inner zones (big, wide windows) and Sonnenplätze (sun places) such as terraces and balconies in outer zones. (Overy, 2007, p. 11) Le Corbusier was a strong advocate of terraces and roof gardens. (Overy, 2007, p. 135) The Lebensraum (living space) should be light, easy-to-clean and heatable as well as affordable for most man.

The „aim of ‚existence-minimum’ housing – was to provide the best possibile quality of life for tenants within a minimum and affordable space.“ (Overy, 2007, p. 12)

Radun Sanatorium Boarding House, Czechoslovakia, 1927

Hygiene was the leitmotif of the interwar period for social, artistic, cultural as well as political visions. Hygienic enlightenment was held in mass conditions of the working class with the objective to decimate diseases and assuring constant health within the public. (Overy, 2007, p. 49) Ornament and decoration – pure dust collectors - were considered as unhygienic. It would only facilitate grievances and social wrongs. (Overy, 2007, p. 68)
Likewise, the bourgeois got equated with impurity. (Overy, 2007, p. 52) Later on, entire folks would be on that list.

The beau ideal of the ancient Greek was revisited and ended up in the cult of the body. An athletic body with sun-tanned skin was seen as model in photography and magazines (and propaganda) as well as personal aspiration.

Rudolf von Laban, dancing group

The universal Lebensgefühl (attitude/awareness/feeling of live) of all classes and groupings could appeal in leisure activities, such as in sport or just enjoying the sun. (Overy, 2007, p. 163) Swimming was common for both sexes, and modern swimwear only covered the torso. (Wilk, 2006, p. 264) This new lightness brought freedom of movement within space and society. Diving in its aesthetic elgance also embodied the speed of time.
Dance was a further way of self-expression and the Zeitgeist of Modernism. Rythmic gymnastics, Bewegungstanz (rhythmic moving dance) and Ausdruckstanz (expressive dance) were improvised and spiritually deduced forms from classical ballett. (Wilk, 2006, pp. 259)

“Search for a physical and spiritual unity”, Architect Raymond McGrath (Wilk, 2006, p. 251)


Bibliography

Buck, R. T., Buckberrough, S. A., Krane, S. (1980) Sonia Delaunay, A Retrospective.
Albright-Knox Art Gallery, Buffalo, New York

Overy, P. (2007) Light, Air and Openness – Modern Architecture between the Wars
Hudson & Thames Ltd, London

Wilk, C. (Editor) (2006) Modernism: Designing a New World (1914-1939)
Chapter 7 - The Healthy Body Culture. V&A Publications, London

Sonia Delaunay and Jacques Damase, Sonia Delaunay: Fashion and Fabrics, Thames and Hudson (May 1997)

Sonia Delaunay: Art into Fashion, George Braziller (January 1987)

Stanley Baron and Jacques Damase, Sonia Delaunay: The Life of an Artist, Pub Overstock Unlimited Inc (May 1995)

Arthur A. Cohen, Sonia Delaunay, Abrams (1988) Reviewed by Sherry Buckborrough

www.timelines.ws/subjects/Fashion.HTML

www.fashion-era.com/swimwear.htm

http://www.oppapers.com/essays/Women-S-Suffrage-Movement

http://www.channel4.com/history/microsites/H/history/guide20